The best diesel oil additive for a Duramax will depend on your needs. If you have a Duramax that is not being used, you will want to use a lubricant to prevent the engine from seizing up. And if you are using your truck regularly, you will wish to an additive that will keep the engine from clogging up with sludge and gunk.
Let’s find out more about the topic below!
Contents
Best diesel oil additive Duramax
The recommended oil for a Duramax diesel meets or exceeds the manufacturer’s specifications. The best Duramax depends on what you are looking for in your truck.
I have a Duramax with the Allison, and the book says to use 15-40 oil rated for a diesel. Rotella has a 5-40 synthetic oil placed for diesel. I was wondering if this material would be alright for my Duramax.
Before this, I was using the brand you want to won’t affect the warranty unless it doesn’t have the correct rating code. I would run about a quart of bleach in the crankcase if it were me. On the freeway, of course.
Amsoil 15w40 Heavy-Duty Diesel oil will allow you to drive 25,000 miles without changing the oil. There have been customers who have driven up to 80,000 miles before changing the oil.
I have several satisfied customers, including a fire department that has been using Amsoil for over a year with outstanding results. This oil will increase your gas mileage and save you time by not changing it every 3000 miles.
We stopped carrying Amsoil at our shop because their “extended” drain intervals don’t match the factory recommendations. If your vehicle is under warranty and you go over the recommended drain interval and have issues, the dealer won’t honor the warranty.
If the car is already with high mileage, it is necessary to pick up the best option just for oil. Just stick with an oil that meets the specs. Most manufacturers state in the manual not to add any oil additives to the oil. A good brand and timely oil changes are best for our skis. Lucas oil stabilizer does make the oil tackier.
What year is the best Duramax diesel?
You will want the 07-10 LMM, Chevy/GMC 6.2L, and 6.5L. I like my LB7. Well, if I could afford it, I’d be using an LML Denali.
The injectors will run a couple of grand, and the installation will take about 14 to 16 hours. I think my 08 was a bit faster than my 09. I should have kept the blue one as the white one gets hit by every rock on the highway. However, they are all good.
I got wood the first time I saw one. As of now, I’m like in my 07 LBZ. I’m not a fan of the 7.5 styling in or out. If I could do it all over again, I would have bought an older truck with some miles on it.
The latest mod LLY is identical to the LBZ minus the tune, with only a 20 HP difference. With the proper tuning and performance parts, you could go along with just the small changes.
Early 06 allies are LBZ motors just detuned. You gain better rods and blocks with the lbs and 6 SPD but also get the crappy pistons that come with them.
Is Lucas Oil Stabilizer suitable for diesel engines?
Lucas Oil Stabilizer is not explicitly made for diesel engines, but it works well with them. The best Duramax is going to meet your needs and budget.
Lucas oil stabilizer is a thick oil additive that coats the entire internals of the engine and prevents dry start-ups. It helps swell the seals on older machines. And I never have witnessed or heard about any ill result of the Lucas oil.
Oil manufacturers put a lot of time and money into blending their oils. Anything you add to it will not improve the oil and worsen it. No stabilizer will perform miracles that restore is garbage.
All I’m telling you is that it prevents dry start-ups, sticks to everything on the inside of the engine, and helps swell the seals a little bit. If it makes you any happier, my buddy’s Saturn was running on 1 1/2 quarts of oil.
If I were using cheap motor oil, I might be inclined to use a stabilizer, but it’s not required in today’s engine oils.
How diesel oil additive works?
CP4 pumps are lubricated by diesel fuel from the tank, which gets pumped through the gears, chamber & valves. The pump then directs power to the injectors for injection into your engine.
The CP4 pump is an outdated design with a flaw in the crankcase. It uses roller lifters, which ride on the camshaft to transfer the oil to the top of an engine. When it fails, oil becomes contaminated immediately due to this design flaw.
We can change the fuel flow by connecting some bypass tubing between the CP4 pump and our kit.
OEMs have to find the perfect balance between risk and reward. To keep maintenance costs low, they often extend the time between servicing.
Compared to a brand new truck, old trucks are a lot cheaper to maintain and will last longer. They can go on for hundreds of thousands of miles with the proper care and treatment.
It’s all about the fuel! Ford and any other manufacturer base their additive opinions on the dream that all of the power we use is Top Tier.
Recommendation for diesel fuel and additives
I only buy gas from Exxon & Shell made without recycled co2. I don’t understand this topic, but somebody told me that Synergy from Exxon doesn’t have any recycled CO2.
Aside from the lack of additives, I like AR6500 and many people want it. Your manual states that Ford does not recommend additives, but Motorcraft is recommended if you use them.
I’ve been using Archoil AR6500 since the truck’s 2nd fill-up (it was first filled when I took it to the dealership). And I haven’t found any problems.
Diesel today lacks enough lubricity to keep our fuel pumps happy for a long time. One bottle of the Archoil stuff lasts 400-500 gallons of power, so when you extrapolate the added cost per fill up, we’re talking peanuts. Look up CP4 failures, and you will find many good debates on this subject.
I am of the same mindset. If I need additives, the company that builds our trucks and performs all of the Engine warranty work for “free” up to 100K MILES would tell us what to use to cut their costs.
