Primer is an essential part of the painting process. It makes the paint stick to the surface better by creating a smooth, even surface. For this purpose, you can use either latex or oil-based primer.
This article will talk about painting over Kilz primer and other things that you need to know. Let’s check it out!
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Do you need to paint over Kilz primer?
Primer is a necessary step before painting over your walls. It creates a barrier between the old paint and the new paint. Primer also seals in any moisture or other substances present on your walls, like dirt or grease. It will help keep your new paint fresh for longer, and it will protect the wall’s surface from any external damage.
If you don’t use primer, then your paint will peel off more quickly than it would if you had primed first. The top layer of color is not as strong as possible because there was no barrier between it and the old layer of paint.
Most people paint over primer to make sure that it sticks properly to the surface and doesn’t peel off easily. Paint over primer is the best way to ensure that your walls are ready for a fresh coat of paint.
However, if you are using Kilz primer, you don’t need to paint over it because it does naturally. Kilz is a brand of primer that comes in many different colors and formulas. You can use Kilz as paint to save money on paint.
But it is not recommended to leave unpainted primer on your walls for extended periods because it can lead to discoloration and peeling.
Paint and primer combination
The combination of paint and primer, especially Kilz, has worked great. Even with an excellent primer and regular quality paint (no primer), it took two coats to get to the actual color.
I would recommend using a primer with a stain blocker. The reason is that primer only does one thing while paint does another. If you’re not confident in your skills, you can buy paint already mixed for this project.
I had not needed a separate primer coat to cover some bold and light colors with one of the soft grays of “paint + primer” throughout my house. It still needs two coats, even if you’re painting a pale yellow over a white wall.
Be sure to use fresh tape. I’ve found that the better the tape job, the minor sanding required. I find that spraying a thin coat of paint on my walls with a light grit sanding before starting helps keep this from happening.
Every time I see a “blue striped” room, I suddenly suffer from Blepharospasm (or “Blu-blepharospasm”). But as soon as I leave, it goes away. I am so good a painter, and I do not need any tape, be it blue or masking tape. I can edge the wall to ceiling line like nobody’s business….all freehand.
I can edge well, too, and don’t necessarily need tape. But for some reason, I feel like it goes faster for me (personal preference). If I spend extra time taping, I cut in 2x as quickly, being careful still.
Should you touch up the primer?
Usually, you don’t need a very thick coat of primer. For previously painted surfaces, the primer acts as a bonding agent. For new drywall, the primer acts as a sealer.
After you brush, backroll with a roller for consistent texture. Do this for both primer and paint. Use a small (4″) roller to get into small areas.
To ensure that you seal out bright colors, prime first with white pigmented shellac. Then apply a full coat of primer over everything.
It looks like something is bleeding through the primer in the painting process. If it still bleeds through, it’s time for an oil-based primer or BIN.
You may need to re-spackle any bad spots. Now is the time to do it.
The primer didn’t stick
I finally got a coat of primer on today, but there are a couple of small areas where it looks like the primer didn’t stick. “Grease” spots won’t take primer. Usually, it’s where someone had been touching the wall with dirty hands or hand cream.
If you want to prime and then paint 20 minutes later, BIN should also work fine, but don’t use it on large areas.
If it’s silicone, which is unlikely, I don’t know what you would do. I’ve always understood that you can’t paint oil over latex, so since I’ve already primed the walls with a PVA latex primer, I’m guessing I can’t now use an oil primer?
These spots are weird. First, the primer went on and streaked on the wall. And then, the areas are up reasonably high. The latex can expand/contract with the surface as the temperature/humidity changes, but the oil can’t. In theory, this can lead to peeling.
I have seen a peculiar issue when using oil primer on interior walls. If your oil prime, spackle, then latex prime, you can get bubbles in the spackle. The solution is easy: oil primer, spackle, then oil primer again.
Primer is not to paint. Some primers have a fair amount of pigment, but others don’t. You can have coloring added to primer to help in covering existing colors.
Most primer is semi-transparent at best. High hiding primer is the answer for priming over bright/bold colors.
It sounds like I should: lightly sand down the roping touch up the primer to ensure that all spots are covered with brush and 4″ roller. I should do another coat of primer over the old colored walls.
How to coat over primer
The idea is to apply as heavy a coat as possible without leaving drips and runs. It looks, too, like there is some uneven texture on the wall, and you used a fine thin nap roller.
Get a roller cover with a 1/4″ nap, saturate it, apply paint, then backroll to smooth it evenly.
To get a loan, we had to remove peeling lead paint. So far, we’ve just scraped off the lead paint and applied primer.
The interior surface is more forgiving, but it still needs a finish coat. You can rent ladders or scaffold relatively cheaply to make the job easier. If you leave the primer uncoated for too long, you’ll need to reprime the surface. Depending on the primer’s bad, it might require a new layer for complete coverage.
I have a dark blue and a dark red room, and I want to paint them in a much lighter color. My contractor said he only needs paint. No prime required; doesn’t this mean he will not prime it at all. But I decided that I should prime it well.
